![]() ![]() ![]() FOLLOW PRINTED LABELED INSTRUCTIONS FOR TIME, TEMPERATURE, AND CONCENTRATION.Īll cleaners and sanitizers require time, temperature, and concentration to do their job effectively. SANITIZERS ARE NOT CLEANERS.ĭon’t cut corners. Cleaners are designed to remove soils and sanitizers kill the bacteria. They are not and should consist of two steps–cleaning and then sanitizing. Some may think these two steps are basically the same. Since it would seem silly to brew with a gas mask on, we suggest always rinsing your cleaners first. There is also a change the un-rinsed cleaners will react with the acids and produce corrosive gasses. If you use a cleaner and don’t properly rinse, there is a chance the sanitizer will become neutralized. Many sanitizers will react with any organic material left behind on your equipment before they kill the bacteria. Without the removal of all soils from equipment there will always be the possibility that the bacteria will be protected from the sanitizer and no one wants that. DIRTY EQUIPMENT WILL ALWAYS CONTAIN BACTERIA. These blends work faster an at lower temperatures then other blends. The two best types of alkaline cleaners to use on beer soils are chlorinated caustics and oxygenated compounds (PBW). In the beer industry the soils we are trying to remove are beer stone and proteins. This is not a good time to have a “good enough” mentality. Just because you can’t see the organic proteins on your equipment, doesn’t mean they aren’t there. It also doesn’t mean you should trust what you see. You will not have the same results as built and chemically tested products. This doesn’t mean you should use just any household cleaner or your own DIY recipe that you developed with your neighbor to save a couple extra George Washingtons. Removing the soil and organic proteins should be the first priority in your cleaning and sanitizing process. Referencing the heart of cleaning-know the soil you are cleaning, and choose the proper chemicals. Thanks to our friends at Five Star here are eight important things to know about cleaning and sanitizing. The formula is: desired mash thickness X weight of grain = Strike water volumeĮxample 1: Desired Mash thickness of 1.25 qts/pound with a grain bill of 10lbs would result in a strike water volume of 12.5 qts (3.12 gallons)Įxample 2: Desired Mash thickness of 1.25 qts/pound with a grain bill of 12lbs would result in a strike water volume of 15 qts (3.75 gallons)Įxample 3: Desired Mash thickness of 1.5 qts/pound with a grain bill of 10 lbs would result in a strike water volume of 15 qts (3.75 gallons) Posted on MaTHE EIGHT RULES OF CLEANING AND SANITATION In general you will use 3 gallons of strike water for a 5 gallon batch with a 10lb grain bill. Try using more water, you will use less sparge water, extract less tannins from the husks, and end up with better a pH. Find a ratio that will work for your equipment. A typical homebrewer will use a range of 1 to 1.5 quarts of water per pound of grain. This can vary based on the recipe, your equipment and your brewing method. This tad will be the amount you expect to leave behind when you do your first racking.įirst estimate what your desired mash thickness will be. Then you will drain and collect as much as possible, followed by sparging until you have collected just a tad over 5 gallons. My rule of thumb is use 3.5 gallons for a 5 gallon batch. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |